Violin and Equipment Checklist
Violin Storage
No extreme temperatures such as a basement or attic or a room with a lot of sun. This includes car boots, which get far too hot for a violin.
No direct sunlight on the instrument.
Not near a heater or air conditioning unit.
No dampness (direct water or steamy air).
Place a clean cloth over the violin before you close the case.
Always put the violin and bow into the case when not playing.
Unwind the bow until the hair is soft.
Secure the bow in the case, so that it won’t fall onto the violin.
If you have finished playing OR you leave the room for any length of time (e.g. for a snack break), close the case.
If other people or animals are in the room, close the case.
Think before you place your violin or bow anywhere, even for a moment: there are stories of people sitting on their violins, driving off with the violin on the car roof, stepping on their violins left on the floor, running over their violins with their car…
Chinrest and Shoulder pad
Don't buy a shoulder rest at first. All you need at first is a simple sponge wedge to tilt the violin towards the bow, held on with elastic. If you can't find one in the music shop, I might be able to provide one during the first lesson.
Rosin
Light Rosin is best for warm climates like Auckland’s. It's harder and not as sticky as dark rosin. Dark Rosin is best for cool climates.
Turn the piece of rosin each time to keep a flat surface. This is kinder to the bow.
Use enough to make the bow ‘hold and pull’ the string.
Wipe it off the string, violin body and bow wood after playing.
If the strings get sticky with rosin, use a tissue and methylated spirits to wipe them clean, without dripping any on the violin body.
Metronome
A metronome is required. An electric metronome with the ‘A’ note is useful. If you don’t have this, you need a tuning fork.
Keep the metronome where you will remember to bring it to lessons.
Music stand
Light but solid and easily folded into a portable shape.
Strings
Take spare strings everywhere you go to play – they can break anytime. Good quality strings are essential for tone quality. Even if they don't break or unwind, strings should be replaced when they start sounding lifeless, false and dull. This happens sooner if:
There is a lot of playing.
You use a lot of force with the left hand (also bad for the player).
Sweaty hands (cause corrosion). Silver strings resist corrosion better than aluminium and nickel alloys.
Changing strings:
Change one string at a time, never all at once as the bridge may fall.
Wind the string without crossing it over on the peg.
Check for a leaning bridge (see below).
Fine tuners
These are at the top of the tailpiece and help with tuning. The pegs will still be needed if the adjustment is large. Try and keep the fine tuners near the middle of their winding by using the pegs sometimes. This allows for easy fine tuning.
Mirror
A mirror is needed in the practice room to check stance and bow straightness.
Maintenance
Bridge
A well maintained bridge should last many years and it shouldn't be necessary to replace it as long as it fits correctly. If it is necessary to repair or replace the bridge (warped or cracked) it must be done by a luthier.
Bow
Bow tension: just enough for the hair to only touch the stick in the middle of the bow when pressed hard on the string.
Don’t touch the bow hair, as grease will limit its ability to hold rosin.
Bow rehairing needs to be done (by a luthier) if:
The rosin no longer ‘holds’. This small irregularities in the horsehair that produce the sound wear out over time.
The bow has lost too much hair (the hairs break over time). Too many hairs lost on one side of the bow can warp the stick.
The hair is too long or short (temperature and humidity can cause this).
Check regularly for problems such as cracks, a warped bridge, fallen soundpost etc.
Immediately go to the seller or a luthier with such problems.
Equipment Checklist
